Gastro Gossip
Raising the bar
Kent House in Knightsbridge recently saw 16 of the UK’s best bartenders battle it out for the World Class UK finals. Finalists shook their stuff in front a crack panel of judges, including Michelin-starred chef, Marco Pierre White. Local mixing talent Andreas Tsanos of Zuma in Knightsbridge missed out on the top spot, which went to Ryan Chetiyawardana (pictured) of Bramble in Edinburgh with his rum-based Three Storm Flip cocktail.
“I’ve been totally blown away by the skill of the bartenders in this final,” Marco Pierre White said of the competition. “To make a great drink takes a lot of hard work, a lot of understanding; it’s not just about putting alcohol into a shaker. What I wanted to see was someone who could engage me, give me something I’d never had before and that was exactly what Ryan did.”
Grape escape
With Mr Christian’s new al fresco option luring sun worshippers to its stacked shelves of goodies, there is no excuse to get down to Elgin Crescent’s most delicious delicatessen. A new addition to the menu is seared tuna with sesame seeds, ginger and Asian dressing; pop next door to Jeroboams for something to savour with it – either a rich white, like a 2007 Moss Wood chardonnay from Margaret River (£23.50), or light red; try a 2007 Robert Groffier Bourgogne Passetoutgrain (£15.95).
11 and 13 Elgin Crescent, W11 2JA
020 7229 0527, www.jeroboams.co.uk
020 7229 0501, www.mrchristians.co.uk
The Spanish inquisition
Get more than just a tapas fix at El Pirata Detapas on Westbourne Grove. Head chef Omar Allibhoy is so keen for W11 locals to experience his authentic Spanish menu, he’s introducing three regional degustation menus this summer. August’s focus is Catalunya, including broad beans with Serrano ham, traditional cod samfaina (a sort of Spanish ratatouille) and pig trotter carpaccio with truffle all. Best of all, you can transport yourself for just £20 per person.
115 Westbourne Grove, W2 4UP, 020 7727 5000, www.elpiratadetapas.co.uk
Mamma mio!
The queues of ice cream lovers for Gelato Mio’s bar of cooling, moreish deliciousness almost stretch down to Notting Hill Gate. Good thing then that the popular ice cream parlour is opening its third shop on Pembridge Road, just down from Arancina. Watch this space (and the hordes from Portobello market).
Something fishy
Learn the art of sushi on August 10, with adult classes running at Wholefoods. Practice making various types of sushi to sample during class, or pack up and take home. We challenge you to have any left by the end of the day.
£15, 6pm–7pm, Barkers Building, Kensington High Street, W8 5SE
020 7368 4500, www.wholefoodsmarket.com
Food for thought
By Rowley Leigh
There is a possibility we are seeing the end of the idea of “Mediterranean” food. It was a concept dreamt up in trashy magazines and hotel restaurants to promote the idea that it might refer to a supposedly healthier diet enjoyed in southern Europe. A conglomeration of tomatoes, tuna, couscous, peppers and olive oil and anything cheap that cynical marketing people in large catering conglomerates could dream up, it became a byword for the second rate. The idea that badly cooked pasta, Dutch tomatoes and couscous is going to be healthier than asparagus, roast beef and oysters is, of course, nonsensical.
It is also insulting to the cuisines of southern Europe. It ignores the fact that large tracts of Spain, Italy, Morocco or wherever are many miles from the sea and therefore never see tuna, sardines or squid. It ignores the fact that these places are often extremely cold in winter and therefore diets generally feature hefty stews of sheep and goat with buckets of dried pulses and starches such as rice and polenta. Furthermore, it ignores the fact that the cuisines of Tunisia, Egypt, Greece and Liguria, say, can be characterised much more by their differences than by their similarities.
I love it all, but then I’ve also got quite a bit of time for Japanese and Chinese food, I am interested in how the Danish eat cod and especially curious about what they do with all sorts of things in Belgium. By all means enjoy a bowl or two of gazpacho and some lamb with ratatouille this summer, but please don’t call it Mediterranean.
Pre book the best seats for Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince, lunch or dinner at Le Café Anglais and free parking at Whiteleys from £16.50 (under 12s) and £35 (adults); email info@lecafeanglais.co.uk.
Le Café Anglais, 8 Porchester Gardens London W2 4DB
020 7221 1415, www.lecafeanglais.co.uk