Food reviews

Awana

Recently returned from Malaysia, I’m not quite over its exceptional hospitality and cuisine. As my budget doesn’t stretch to a second trip, Awana is fortunately within reach. A friend and I tried the tasting menu fortuitously titled A Malaysian Journey.  

In Kuala Lumpur one might partake of a version of moist chicken skewers with spicy satay and buttery roti  at a humble hawker stand, but here the decadent interior is tricked out in lush red lather, teak and batik. Adventurous sour fruit salad with rose apple, mango and yam beans offered a refreshing, exotic flavour blast, while prawns and crab with pomelo (a sour, pulpy relative of the grapefruit) proved more subdued.

Rusuk kambing panggang – baked lamb ribs in rich dry marinade – is a house speciality. This arrived with laska – chicken, crab, prawns, tofu and noodles in broth. The soup was a scene-stealer; with lemongrass, curry leaf and coconut for flavour, it’s a fulfilling showcase of Malaysia’s indigenous ingredients.

The star of the show, however, manifested itself as tender beef curry positively packed with hearty good taste, thanks to Awana’s blend of dark spices in coconut milk. Sides of rice and stir-fried vegetables highlighted Malaysia’s Chinese influence.

Puddings included lemongrass and chilli sorbet, coconut ice cream and baked tapioca cake. I imagine the latter is authentic, but the frozen offerings were far more exciting. The sorbet was an inimitable mix of fire and ice; to extend my Malaysian appreciation yet further I’m quite ready for Awana to package it in tubs for home consumption. Shannon Denny