Food reviews

Bumpkin

Above: Bumpkin

Bumpkin opened to a flurry of press and, unusually for a restaurant brave enough to take on a long-abandoned site, an instant full house. It’s a strangely unsexy name, Bumpkin, for a place that’s aiming to be so of the moment, and frankly didn’t make a great impression on us before we visited. But as soon as we got there, impressions changed. The place is lovely and super professional, with staff visibly proud of their eaterie and enthusiastic diners already established as regulars.

The country bumpkin theme is everywhere. Staff wear t-shirts labelled “country boy” and “country girl” and décor is both glamorous and rustic with outsize floral wallpaper, lots of wood and countless shades of brown everywhere. The establishment takes over the entire three storey building with a ground floor brasserie, a first floor dining room, an upstairs bar and two cosy top floor whisky rooms (armchairs and hundreds of different malts), all beautifully decorated. But all this would be nothing if the food weren’t up to scratch, which it most definitely is, rustic-style. Starters of potted Dorset shrimps and pork rillettes were both flawless, sweet, buttery and juicy shrimp, and lovely sage and onion flavoured pork, served simply and unpretentiously. Main courses were just as satisfying: fish pie for me, which was hot and creamy, and for him breaded country veal with lemon, which was a large flattened schnitzel, simple and tasty. Nursery-style puddings include sticky toffee pud and apple crumble, all in all making Bumpkin just right for January. Pendle Harte

Place: Bumpkin, 209 Westbourne Park Road W11 (020 7243 9818)

Feels like: Very urban really

Tastes like: Simple, traditional and meaty

Costs: Three course dinner for two with wine around £100