Food reviews

Hill

Casa Frattini

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Above: Casa Frattini

Casa Frattini is a local legend. This tiny venue was famed for its intimate late nights, its wall for people to scribble on and its super tasty pasta dishes. But during the past year or so its reputation waned, with diners reporting less than brilliant Frattini experiences. Now this is all set to change, since Frattini has reopened with a new owner, a new chef and a whole new vibe. And they’re even thinking of changing the name.
At the moment, though, the name remains though the wall, sadly, is gone (where did they put it?) so anyone hoping to leave their autograph on the paintwork will be disappointed. Instead, the team behind the classy deli in Stratford Road W8 who are now in charge have created a rustic interior that on our visit was full of Italians, making the tiny space feel vibrant and not much like London.
Food-wise, this is an outfit that prides itself on its ingredients. We started with king prawns, brandy sauce and polenta, and beef tartar. The tartar was roughly cut, rustic style, and there was crispy home-made focaccia to go with it. Main courses were lamb with sesame seeds and red wine jus (juicy, perfectly pink lamb and lovely crunchy seeds) and a memorable pappardelle with duck and porcini, which was intensely infused with mushroom. New owner Giorgio is justifiably proud of the place, which is set for success. But beware: it still is tiny, so you will need to book.  PH
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Simon Horn