Food reviews

Fishworks

Above: W11's Fishworks

This likeable chain originated in Bath and is spreading fast. The slim Westbourne Grove branch isn’t the most visible of its sites, with the front fishmonger set back from the pavement, and maybe that’s why it’s taken almost a year for The Hill to visit. But now that we’ve been, we’ll keep going. Because it’s a hearteningly enthusiastic enterprise, run by staff who know their stuff and really care, and therefore everything looks and tastes excellent.
There’s a fixed menu plus a specials board, and you can choose your fish from the fishmonger as you arrive. Almost everything comes straight from Brixham and the selection changes constantly.
Inside, it’s simple with unfussy décor, though there’s a shiny downstairs shellfish bar. Ordering takes a while because of the countless tempting options, ranging from simple grilled fish to ‘fabulous fish stew’, big fish to share or assorted crustaceans. We couldn’t miss the famous Fishworks taramasalata, which is highly deserving of its reputation: smoky, creamy and without the sickliness of lesser versions – and hardly pink at all. Starting with razor clams in garlic butter, and regular clams, we fought over the best-sounding main: wild halibut with clams, langoustines, garlic and chilli, which was a proper seafood feast and came with lovely samphire, in season for only about six weeks over the summer. Grilled black bream, one of the day’s specials, was tasty and lovingly done, while tomato, onion and caper salad was made from properly good ingredients.
Fishworks owner Mitch Tonks is on a mission to get the nation eating more fish and he has produced a cookbook as well as a website full of fishy tips. And to encourage people to start young, children eat for free at certain times at the Westbourne Grove eaterie. Fishworks is very reasonably priced and you can eat mackerel for just £6, or wild halibut for £19. This may not be their most obvious site but it’s an excellent local spot. Pendle Harte