Food reviews

Osteria Basilico

nywhere else, Osteria Basilico would be a normal neighbourhood Italian, with its dimly lit romantic cosiness, rustic décor and hearty portions. But its Kensington Park Road address gives Osteria a more glamorous identity as it numbers the various Hollywood stars who frequent this postcode among its customers, apparently. Still, the eaterie, which turns 16 this year, has recently gained a reputation for slack and even rude service, so The Hill revisited to see if the rumours were founded.
Our late booking was happily accommodated and we arrived before the place started to fill. It’s small and slightly cramped upstairs, with lots of staff and a busy vibe. The menu’s not fancy or clever, but reliable and tasty, and the intimacy of the place, lantern-lit and homey, with classic candles in wine bottles, makes it a good romantic option for a Valentine’s dinner, though they really should lose the awful Italian pop soundtrack.
We started with a vast plate of smoked mozzarella with mushrooms and Parma ham, and some juicy calamari. Then there was spaghetti with clams for me and ravioli with duck, truffles and rosemary for him, all tasty, satisfying and just what you want from a local Italian. No gastro surprises and no show-offy elements – this is a friendly local Italian, exactly what it promises to be. l PH