Food reviews

Paradise by Way of Kensal Green

A year since its stylish makeover, the all-new Paradise is proving even more popular than predicted. It’s not only the impressive menu from chef Tim Payne, and the clever cocktails, but also the range of events, shows and gigs that really take advantage of the space. And now, to add to the programme, there’s the newly-launched Paradise Guide to Better Yourself, which features regular Monday evening classes. There’s salsa, tango, flower arranging, wine tasting, swing dancing and burlesque as well as bag making and jewellery making, all on different Mondays and at £6 a session, who’s to argue?
Before or after your class, you should take advantage of dinner. On a recent visit we were very impressed with the food: gazpacho was beautifully refreshing, clearly made with high class, tasty ingredients. Scallops came sliced with sharp Iszu dressing and a main course of pearl barley risotto with peas, broad beans, girolles and pea dressing came with delicious seasonal pea shoots on top, while veal with aubergines, mozzarella and tomatoes was flawless. A lovely chilled bottle of rosé made it a perfect summer meal – and next year the experience will be even better when the garden is finished and a new staircase will link the garden and the first floor terrace.l PH