Food reviews

The Big Easy

We grew up in the American Deep South, where my grandfather raised beef cattle and my grandmother was greatly admired throughout the county for her cooking. The two of them will turn in their graves, but the beef at the Big Easy was the most delicious and tender I’ve ever had.
We were well on our way to an excellent evening on arrival – my own Atlanta Braves were on TV and frozen margaritas transported us convincingly back home. We sat downstairs surrounded by cowboy-themed birthdays of all ages, while the band played songs from my alcohol-poisoned youth.
A platter of oysters, crab claws and prawns – all huge – was icily fresh to start. We loved the intense, tangy house cocktail sauce. Next we shared a juicy steak sandwich, served with coleslaw seasoned with celery salt – my favourite secret flavour. We also fought over the Kobe Club – a 6oz Charolais fillet, 4oz wagyu rump, and an 8oz New York sirloin. Ok so it’s a bit decadent, but it all disappears faster than you’d think. The man preferred the wagyu but the fillet stole my heart – imagine rich, dark notes of charcoal and caramel, acres of prime pink succulence within, and breaded fried onion rings on the side. (Health food they ain’t, but for my money these salty sweet delicacies are almost worth perishing for.)
In Texas, a man who’s long on hype and short on substance is said to be “all hat and no cattle”. It may be tricked out like a theme park, but if the Big Easy were a rancher, its 20-gallon hat would be backed up by a million head of steer.
Shannon Denny